Improvement in sewing-machines for sewing shoes



J. KEITH. Sewing Machine for Sewing Shoes. No. 97,518. Patnted Dec. 7,1869.

N. PETIERi vnom-ulho n nu Washington, 0. c.

NITED S ATEs PATENT (Darren.

- .JEREMIAH KEITH, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINES FOR SEWING s oes.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 97,518, dated December7, 1869.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JEREMIAH KEITH, of Brooklyn, in the county of Kingsand State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement inSole-Sewing Machines; and I do hereby declare that the following is afull. clear, and exact description thereof, which will enable othersskilled in the art to make and use the same, reference being bad to theaccompanying drawings forming part of this specification. i

This invention relates to sewing-machines of that class used for sewingsoles in the manufacture of boots and shoes; and consists,

first, in the construction of the looper ar-' ranged within'the horn toform the stitches, with the chain on the inside, without turning theboot or shoe inside out. It consists, secondly, in the combination ofdevices for r0 tatin g the needle-bar and horn simultaneous- 1y;thirdly, in the mechanism for operating the looper and, lastly, in thearrangement of devices by which the feed-bar and presserrfoot areoperated.

In the accompanying plate of drawings, Figure 1 represents an elevationof the machine, with parts broken away to show the construction andmethod of operation, the left-hand lower portion being a verticalsection of Fig. 2 through the line mm. Fig. 2 is a front elevation, withthe horn and bed turned around to aitangle with the side of the machine.Fig. 3 is a longitudinal section of the horn through the line pg; ofFig. 1. Fig. 4. represents the needle and thelower end of the needle-bardetached. Fig. 5 is a vertical section, looking from the line 2 z ofFig. 1, showing the grooved cam by which the hook or looper and detacherare actuated.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts.

A is the horn, which, in operating with the machine, is placed in theshoe or boot, as seen in the drawings, where the boot is represented inred color. The horn is so made that the mechanism by which I am enabledto form the stitch on the inside of the shoe is 0011- tained in andsupported thereby. B is the needle-bar of the machine. .0 is the needle.B is a hook or looper operated in the horn A, and connected with thesliding bar E. As the needle 0 carries the thread through the hole inthe needle-plate F the looper or hook D catches the loop, which is heldby the spring 9 until it is liberated by the detacher h. In this mannerthe ordinary chain-stitch is formed; but the chain is on the insideinstead'of on the outside, thus rendering it unnecessary to channel thebottom' side of the sole for receiving and hiding the thread.

The needle-bar B is operated by means of the arm I, the lower end ofwhich is given a vibratory motion by means of the zigzag groove in thecylinder-cam J. The looper-bar E is operated by a cam movement impartedfrom the grooved cam K by means of the vibrating frame L and lever M. Nis a rod which connects the frame L with the lever M. This rod isconnected with the lever M by a ball-and-socket joint, as seen at 0,which allows the lever to turn while the connectingrod remainsstationary. The vertical motion imparted to this lever M operates thelooper bar or hook D. The detacher h is a separate .piece, with twostopsv upon it, forming shoulders, which the bar E strikes as it movesback and forth, thereby moving the detacher the right distance eitherway and at the right time. A sufficient degree of friction on the backend of the detacher is produced by the spring q, seen in Fig. 3. 1t is ashort bar which connects the lever M with the looperbar E. The needle 0and the looper work to the center, and in forming the stitch the latterpasses the needle 0 in catching the loop. To allow the hook or looper topass, acurve is formed just above the eye of the needle C, as

looper D draws the loop down and back, and

holds it until the needle brings down the thread again, and another loopis formed. The first loop is held in position by the spring 9, while thelooper D moves forward through the second loop, catches it, and draws itback my machine I git-e it three-fourths, or thereabout, ofa revolution,which, by changing the shoe or boot on the horn, is all that isnecessary to sew entirely around the sole, and in forming the stitchafter my method it is necessary that the born, with the parts at tachedthereto, and the needle G, should.

move in a revolving direction simultaneously. To insure this the hornand the needle-bar B are connected together by the curved backpiece Sand the bar T. This bar T is jointed at a to the back, which allows theother end to rise and fall with the needle-bar. The bar u passes througha slot in the top of the nee dle-bar, or it may be connected with it inany other manner to insure a movement simultaneous and uniform with thatof the horn. The horn is connected with the bed V, which is supported byand turns on the post w, as seen in Fig. I. The connectingrod N passesup through the pivot X, on which the bed V turns. a is the feed-bar, andb is thepresser-t'oot. The point of the, feed-bar receives a verticalmotion by means of the lever c. d is a plate attached to the feed-bar,and the lever c has its fulcrum therein (for raising the presser-t'ootb) on a pin passing through a slot in the plate.

The slot allows the feed-bar to receive a longitudinal movement forgiving the feed. This longitudinal movement is imparted by the cam eandbar f, which may be made variable by any suitable mechanism. After thebar has given the feed, or received its longitudinal movement, it israised by the lever c, the fulcrum of the lever then being in thepresserfoot, as seen at g. The back movement of the feed-bar and thelever c is produced by the spiral springs M, as seen in the drawing. Therod j connects the lever 0 with the cam by means of the bar 70.

Theproper tension of the thread is obtained bypassing it around thepulley a as many times as it may be necessary after it has been suitablyprepared by passing through a reservoir of heated wax. The back movementof the presser-foot is produced by the recoil of i the spiral spring. t.

By this method I am enabled to sew the sole without turning the bootinside out, and to form the stitch or chain on the inside of the boot orshoe, thus greatly increasing the durability of the article, as it isnecessary, in order to conceal the chain, to cut or channel the leatherwhen the stitch is formed on the outside at'ter the old method.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secureby letters Patent- 7 1. The combination, with the rotating horn, of theslide E, looper D, and detacher h, constructed and operating within thehorn F, substantially as herein described, for the. purpose specified. i

'2. The combination of the curved backpiece S, pivoted bar T, andswinging bed V with the horn F, and needle-bar, for the purpose ofrotating the needle-bar and horn simultaneously, substantially as hereinshown and described.

3. The looper D in combination with the cam K, the frame L,connecting-rod N, pivoted lever m, short bar is, and sliding bar E, therod N, and lever m, being connected together by a ball-and-socket joint,0, all arranged and shown as herein described, and

JEREMIAH KEITH.

Witnesses FRANK BLOCKLEY, ALEX. F. Ronna'rs.

